Coat



Nov. 16, 1948. 1.15. GUCKERT 2,453,989

COAT 7 Filed April 18, 19 6. 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Nov. 16, 1948. L. s.GUCKERT 2,453,989

I com Filed April 18, 1946 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VEN TOR.

Ndv. 16, 1948. L. s. GUCKERT COAT Fild April 1a, 1946 5 Shee'ts-Sheet 3IN V EN TOR.

Mag

Nov. 16, 1948. 1,. s. GUCKERT COAT s Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed April 18, 1946Nov. 16, 1948. 1.. s. GUCKERT COAT 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed April 18, 1946INVENT 'OR. 5W 2% Patented Nov. 16, 1948 COAT Leonard S. Guckert,Baltimore, Md., assignor to Mavest, Inc., New York, N. Y.

Application April 18, 1946, Serial No. 663,011

3 Claims (01. 2-93) My present invention relates to methods of producingcoats and more particularly leisure coats.

It is an object of my present invention to simplify the construction ofsuch coats so as to reduce the difiiculties connected with production ofthe same.

It is another object of my present invention to produce coats which arevery light and comfort able to wear.

' Still another object of my present invention consists in a coatconstruction by which the amount of used reinforcing lining materialmight be reduced without affecting the appearance of the coat.

More particularly, it is an object of my present invention to provide acoat the fronts and back of which are cut so as to create the desiredbulges in the coat fronts without the necessity of-using reinforcinglining material for creating the bulging effects.

With the above objects in view, a coat according to my present inventioncomprises two coat fronts, a coat back composed of two back sections,and two inwardly curved side seams connecting this coat back to thementioned coat fronts; these side seams are arranged in accordancewithmy present invention substantially along the central side lines of thecoat extending from the undercenter of the armholes to the bottom edgeof the coat.

Also in accordance with my present invention I provide in each coatfront only one front dart extending parallel to the corresponding sideseam 'of the front; this front dart is preferably also parallel to thefront edge of the coat front and at equal distance from this front edgeand the side seam.

The sleeves of a coat of the type proposed by me are sewn into thearmholes of the coat in such a manner that their longitudinal underarmseams extend from the edges of the sleeves to the points of intersectionof the armholes with the side seams of the coat, i. e. to the so-calledundercenter points of the armholes.

I have found that a coat constructed as defined above does not need anyreinforcing lining to create the necessary bulges in the coat fronts.

.Thus, it is possible to provide a coat front of the type defined aboveonly with one single reinteristic for my invention are set forth inparticular in the appended claims. The invention itself, however, bothas to its construction and its method of operation, together withadditional objects and advantages thereof, will bebest understood fromthe following description of specific embodiments when read inconnection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. l is a coat front forming part of a coat according to my presentinvention; 1

Fig. 2 is a coat back forming also part-ofa coat according to my presentinvention;

Fig. 3 is a front view of a coat according to my present inventionprovided with coat fronts of the type shown in Fig. 1 and coat back ofthe type shown in Fig. 2; I e i Fig. 4 is a side view of the coat shownin Fig. 3, with the sleeve in raised position; 1 i,

Fig. 5 is a side View of a coat of conventional design;

Fig. 6 is a view of the inner face of. the coat front shown in Fig.1,'provided with the neces-: sary linings and a shoulder pad; and

Fig. 7 is a view of the inner face of a coat front of conventionaldesign provided with the various linings and shoulder pad usually used.

As set forth above, my new coat consists of two coat fronts III, a coatback ll composed of two back sections I 2 and I 3, two sleeves l4 and acollar l5.

In accordance with my present invention, the coat fronts extend onlyuntil the central side lines 16 of the coat; each of these lines I6extend from the undercenter ll of the armhole I8 to the bottom edge 19of the coat. This bottom edge l9 coincides usually with the hip line ofthe wearer.

In order to obtain a coat front having the shape defined above, the coatfront 10 is cut so that its side edge 20 coincides with the central sideline I6. Furthermore, in order to obtainthe necessary bulging effect inthe front of the coat, this edge 20 is inwardly curved at 2| as clearlyshown in Fig. l.

By shaping the coat front l0 and its side edge 20 in this manner, it ispossible to pull the coat front l0 along side edge 20 particularly atthe inwardly curved portion 2! thereof toward the back of the coat andto obtain thereby the desired bulging effect in the upper part of thecoat front. In order to strengthen this bulging effect, I provide onesingle front dart 22 arranged as shown in Figs. 1 and 3 substantiallyparallel to the front edge 23 and the side edge 20 of the=coat front Itat equal distance from the same.

I wish to stress that coats of usual design have their side seams alwayson the back of the coat as clearly indicated in Fig. 5 showing a sideview of a coat of conventional type. In order to obtain such a locationof the side seams, coat fronts of usual design are much wider than coatfronts of the type proposed by me.

In order to enable comparison of a usual coat front with a. coatifront.of the .type proposed by me, I-have indicatedin Fig. 1 in dottedlinesthe shape of a usual coat front; as clearly visible the side edge24 of a usual coat front is much farther back than the side edge of mynew coat front.

Furthermore, the side edge '24 of a usual-coat front has to beabsolutely straight since otherwise it would create a bulge ,on the backof the coat. Thus, the side seamsconnecting the fronts with the back ofa usual coat can in no way helpin creating the bulges in the coatfronts, Contrary thereto, asexplained: above,'by running the side ,seams20 alongthe central side lines 31'5 of -the.-coat as-proposed by me itisn-possible to make theseside-seams curved and to create-the necessarybulges in.:the' fronts of the :coat'.

.lInaFig. 2 Ihave shown infull lines a-coat'ba'ck lxlxused'for'my newcoat and indicated :incthis sametfigure *in dotted .linest'the sideedges- 25 of awcoat back of usual'type. evident from this drawing, theside edges: 26 of theycoat back H proposed by.me are-much farther apartthan the side edgesZS of a coat'xback ofusual design. Accordingly, acoat. back. of the type proposed by me'i's;.much .widerthan a coat backof usual des gn; thisz=is alsoevident from Figs; 4'and' 5 in which theposition of the side seam 21' o'f' a coat ofthe typeproposed by'mev andof the side seam 28 of a coat of usual design, respectively, are shown:the side seam ifl of the coatproposed' by me coincides, as shown in Fig.4, with the :centralside line I6' of the coat, whilethe -sideseam 28 0facoat of usual type islocated actuallyon the back of the coat, at asubstantialdistance from the central side line I'B indicated on Fig. 5in: dotted lines.

Therefore, the front of a coat of usual design is'much wider than thefront of a coat of the type proposedby mean-d, in order to obtain therequired bulges, it is necessary to provide at least two front darts 29and 30 as shown in Fig.5

and to arrange-in addition thereto a complicated reinforcing liningconstruction of the type shown in Fig. '7; i

Such a conventional reinforcing lining comprises as shown in thisfigure, a large layer of l hymo fabric 3lcovering almost the entire-coatfront, a reinforcing canvas 32 extending over the chest portion of thefrontja felt fabric 533 coverin'gthe entire'upper portion of the front,and a hair' cloth 34 covering the entire shoulder portion of the front.All these lining layers have to be stitched to each other over theirentire surfaces-seas to prevent dislocation of..the' single layersrelative to each other. y

In additiorrto this complicatedliningconstruction", a coat front ofconventional type contains also shoulderpads .35 and an innercovering'lining not shown in the drawing; thisinner lining hasno'reinforcing eifect'andserves' only to cover the reinforcing liningconstruction arranged "between the top fabric of the coat front and theinner lining. For the reasons explained abova a coat-a'ccord ing'zto mypresent invention does not need any reinforcing lining [construction-gtherefore, I do not need any of the linings described above and used ina coat front of conventional type shown in Fig. 7.

As shown in Fig. 6, a coat front [0 of the type proposed by me isequipped only with a narrow strip 36 of hymo fabric provided along thefront edge 23 of the front; this fabric strip 35 serves exclusively toprevent curling of the fabric at the edge. It has no effect uponthe-bulging of the coat front; this is-also unnecessary since therequired bulging effect is created by the shape of the top fabrics ofthe fronts and back of the .coat. The hymo strip 36 reaches also underlapel 31 of the coat front so as to reinforce the same.

At the shoulder of the coat under shoulder seam 38 I provide in wellknown manner a shoulder-pad 35. This shoulder pad 35 has, however, noeffect upon the shape of the chest portion of the coat front. Itprevents only sloping of the shoulder line and improves the appearanceof the coat in this respect.

It will be understood that each of the. elements described above, or twoor more together, .may also-:find a useful application in other types ofgarments, e. g. top coats differing from the types described above.

While I have illustrated and described the :invention as embodied inleisure coats, I-do :not intend to be limited to the details shown,since various modifications and structural changes may be made withoutdeparting in any way from 'the spirit of my invention.

Without further analysis, the foregoing will so fully reveal the gist ofmy invention that others can by applying current knowledge readily adaptit for various applications without omitting features-that, from thestandpoint of prior art, fairly constitute essential characteristics of.the generic or specific aspects of thisinvention, and, therefore, suchadaptations should and maintended to be comprehended within the meaningand range of equivalence of the followingclaims.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

'1. A coat comprising two coat fronts having side edges arrangedsubstantially along the central side lines of said coat extending fromthe undercenter points of the armholes to the bottom edge of the coat; acoat back composed of two back sections secured to each other byacentral back seam, said coat back having two side edges arrangedsubstantially along said central side lines; side seams connecting saidside edges'of said coat back and said coat fronts andextendingsubstantially along said central side lines of said coat;onesinglefront dart in each coat front extending substantially parallelto said side seams of said coat; and sleeves sewn into said'armholes ofsaid coat and having longitudinal underarm seams, said sleevesconstructed so that said longitudinal underarm seams extend from theedges of the sleevesto-the points of intersection of said armholeswithsaid side seams of said coat.

2. A coat comprising two coat fronts having each an inwardly curved sideedge; a coat .back composed of two back sections having each an inwardlycurved side edge; side seamsconnecting saidinwardly curved side edges ofsaid coat back sections and said inwardly curved side-edges of saidcoatfronts so that said coat is inwardly curvedalong both sides in theregion of. said side seamsjsaid side seams extending from the armholesof said coat to the bottom edge thereof substantially along the centralside lines of said coat extending from the' undercenter points of saidarmholes to the hip line of the coat; one single relatively short frontdart in each coat front extending substantially parallel to thecorresponding side seam of said coat and the front edge of said coatfront substantially parallel to said side seam and said front edge; andsleeves having underarm seams and sewn into said armholes of said coatin such a manner that said underarm seams extend from the edges of saidsleeves to the undercenter points of said armholes meeting said inwardlycurved side seams of said coat.

3. A coat comprising two coat fronts having side edges arrangedsubstantially along the central side lines of said coat extending fromthe undercenter points of the armholes to the bottom edge of the coat; acoat back composed of two back sections secured to each other by acentral back seam, said coat back having two side edges arrangedsubstantially alon said central side line of said coat; one singlerelatively short front dart in each coat front, said front dartsextending substantiall parallel to the corresponding side and frontedges of said coat fronts at substantially equal distance from saidedges; shoulder seams connecting said coat back and said coat REFERENCESCITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATE PATENTS Number Name Date 964,278 Larkin July 12, 1910'1,388,563 Hanson Aug. 23, 1921 1,677,913 Bieberstein July 24, 19281,793,377 Siskin Feb. 17, 1931 1,900,391 Slanger Mar. 7, 1933 1,973,419Trageser Sept. 11, 1934 2,330,520 Saveth Sept. 28,1943

